Alpine grades:
On these pages, you will find different difficulties of ascents, either in form of digits, which is climbing scale
(UIAA, French) or in form of letters, so called alpine scale, which can be found on mountains in Switzerland,
Italy and France. In Germany or Austria, climbs are marked in UIAA grades.
UIAA = Union Internationale des Associations D'Alpinisme (International Mountain Association of
Alpinism)
French Alpine Grades
Expresses total difficulty of ascent, which can be amended with UIAA rock scale to describe rocky parts. It is taking
into account following elements:
- approach, its length and complexity
- descent track, method, length and complexity
- quality and availability of stances
- quality of rock, snow and ice
- level of objective dangers
- inclination
- weather
Following table summarizes all alpine grades:
Grade |
Description |
F Facile (easy) |
Straightforward line, e.g. glacier approach. Any snow or ice has mild inclination allowing easy walk. |
PD Peu difficile (little difficult) |
Slightly more difficult routes like F with more complicated glacier terrain with objective dangers. Routes can be
longer and at higher altitude. It consists of snow and ice with inclination no more than 35-45 degrees.
For example: Mont Blanc - traverse (PD+), Mont Blanc - Gouter (PD-), Monch - SV ridge, Gran Paradiso - ordinary route
(PD-) |
AD Assez difficile (pretty hard) |
Snow and ice slopes with inclination 40-55 degrees are common here. On these routes, you can also walk into
rock climbing parts till III UIAA, but their not permanent.
For example: Matterhorn - Hornli ridge (AD-), Monch - Nollen, Eiger - South ridge, Aiguille Verte - Whymper couloir
(AD+) |
D Difficile (hard) |
Serious ascent with rock climbing parts at grade of IV and V, with snow and ice slopes at inclination of
50-70 degrees
For example: Eiger - Mittellegi ridge, Mont Blanc - Innominata (D/D+), Aiguille du Midi - Frendo Spur (D+) |
TD Tres difficile (very hard) |
Outstanding and permanent slopes of ice and snow at 65-80 degrees. Difficult rock climbing sections with grade
at V - VI UIAA. High objective dangers.
For example: Matterhorn - north face, Mont Blanc du Tacul - Gervasuttiho pillar, Les Drus - Bonatti pillar |
ED Extremement difficile (extremely hard) |
Extremely hard routes with vertical ice and rock climbing grades at VI - VIII
For example: Eiger - north face, route from 1938 (ED2), Mont Blanc - Freney pillar (ED1), Grandes Jorasses -
Walker Spur (ED1) |
Rock climbing grades
Difficulty of rock climbing sections are as follows in UIAA with conversion table to French grading system:
French |
UIAA |
3 | III |
4 | IV |
4+ | V- |
5- | V |
5a | V+ |
5b | VI- |
5c | VI |
6a | VI+ |
6a+ | VII- |
6b | VII |
6b+ | VII+ |
6c | VII+ |
7a | VIII |
7a+ | VIII+ |
7b | VIII/IX- |
7b+ | IX- |
7c | IX |
... | |
You probably won't find other grades on these pages (UIAA scale continues all the way to XII-)
Sources used:
http://www.alpineguides.info/grades.htm
http://www.mountaindays.net/content/articles/gradesice.php
http://www.summitpost.org/fact-sheet/173430/handy-alpine-grade-facts.html
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