Even though I knew the approach to Dent du Geant, for some reason, our guys started to deviate from it and are walking more to the left, at the point, when Dent is on our right hand side. At that moment, I was thinking to myself, that they have more information and there might be something wrong with original approach, for example large crevasse or ice. First four guys start through the snowy couloir, next couple another gully to the left. In order not to get hit by falling stones, we choose the far left approach. First part is just steep snow, which is than followed by mixed terrain. Unfortunately our sacks are becoming heavier and terrain is getting worse and worse. By getting worse, I mean loose rocks covered in fresh snow with slope degree going up till we get to the point, where we have to start creating stances and climb III UIAA terrain. That slowed down our climbing significantly and when we are in the middle of approach to Dent, our watches show half past twelve. We must start the descend, or otherwise we would have to descend this dangerous terrain at night. The rest of the guys already gave up and we can see them down on the glacier walking towards the hut.

La tour Ronde (3.792m). foto by © Jan Virt

Descend through these loose stones took lot longer than we wished. We decided to rappel last two parts to the foot of the glacier, leaving there two slings. Last rappel was really interesting, as we had to rappel 10m down to the crevasse and after crossing small snowy bridge, climb it up again. Finally, at 7pm, we are standing on the glacier and relieve from surviving is quickly replaced by anger from mistake, which we had made. It was really good lesson for our next trips, not to blindly follow other people, as they might be wrong as well. As the weather is supposed to be nice next day, hut is full with new faces. After eating some muesli and chocolate bars, we hit our sacks. Our plan climbing Mont Blanc via the Midi starts to vanish and we are thinking about what to do next. For now, we decided crossing the glacier to the french side and than we will decide.

Grand and Petit Capucin. foto by © Jan Virt

Traverse from Italy to France is really nice. Each moment we get closer to Col du Midi, new views open in front of us, with well known Grand Capucin, Maudit, Tacul and finally Grandes Jorasses with its famous north face. We had to cross numerous crevasses, but as the route is pretty frequent, we have no problem with orientation. Our weariness from previous day starts to show up. At Col du Midi we were walking very slowly and last ridge to the Midi is the last drop. Plans on summiting Blanc are over. Not just because our tiredness but also because north face of Tacul is under fresh snow and nobody is willing to be the first one in making the steps. We descend down to Chamonix using the cable car. Down in the camp we opened up our imported beers, originally kept as for celebrating Blanc summit, but we drank them for other reason, being down and safe.

Start of Cosmiques Ridge. foto by © Jan Virt

Whole night was raining on our tent, morning is cool and wet. We decided to visit Chamonix and to spend some money on climbing books and guides, with leaving the same day home. However our sad plan starts to change, as the weather forecast becomes better for next day. So what, leaving such a great place like Chamonix is hard, and we decided to stay for on more day and at least climb Cosmiques Ridge. Mixed terrain with hardest climb of 4a sounds invitingly.

Aiguille du Midi (3.842 m)

Arete du Cosmiques: AD/II/4a (crux 4c)

First climbing part. foto by © Jan Virt

It is Saturday morning and we are standing in the line for Midi cable car. After reaching Midi at 3.800m, we descend well known ridge down to Col du Midi. Exposure is not making us problems any more. From Col du Midi, we continue in direction towards the Abri Simond hut, which is old hut right behind the Cosmiques hut. Cosmiques Ridge starts right there. What is slightly destroying nice atmosphere of mountains is many people already waiting at the beginning of the Ridge, who had same ideas as we did and beautiful weather with easy approach just makes this route very famous. Later on we met these little crowds more times, especially on spots like rappel or crux pitch.

At the first tower. foto by © Jan Virt

Cosmiques Ridge is great route, sometimes with lots of people climbing it, but if you prepared for it, you will really enjoy it. I would recommend it to both beginners for introduction with alpine mixed climbing to experienced alpinists, who will enjoy its exposure as well. You can find the route also in french, called Arete du Cosmiques. We climbed the route on continued belay. There are only two points, where it is better to use bolted stances. Only gear you should take are four slings and some quickdraws. Nuts or cams are not needed, but can be useful for necessary sudden escape via either one of two couloirs going down to Col du Midi.

Traverse between both towers. foto by © Jan Virt

First 150 m is through the mixed terrain, which is than followed by rappel or descend. Acording to exposure, we all went for option one, rappel. I would recommend taking some prusiks with you for self protection during the rappel. Next section is traverse around the first tower followed by short 4a climb. Next traverse follows around the second tower ending up with crux pitch. We are approaching another crowd. All of us nervous, as one of the climbers was probably holding the rock for the first time and couldn't get over it. There is about ten people spending their time chatting between each other.

Back view on second tower. foto by © Jan Virt

There is one fixed sling in the crux pitch, where you can clip the quickdraw. By my opinion it can be easily climbed, but some bastard drilled two holes into the rock, so others can put their front spikes of crampons into them. Still, plenty of people were struggling there, no comment, they should have stayed home instead of stopping other people behind. This climb, however can be bypassed from the left by climbing up short chimney but as there is no protection, I would recommend using some cams. Another easy gully follows (3c/4a) which leads us to the final ridge ending with ladder to Aiguille du Midi terrace.

Crux pitch 4c. foto by © Jan Virt

Guide is showing time of ascent four hours, but according to popularity of the route, it is better to reserve at least half a day, if the weather is nice. Climbing onto the terrasse with tourist taking pictures with you is worth it :-).

Last gully at the end of the route. foto by © Jan Virt

Recommended gear: four slings, four carabines, some nuts (or mid size cams), crampons, ice axe, 50m rope.

Partner: Václav Kadlec

PICTURE-GALLERY

Links:

Rifugio Torino - Info about the Torino hut.